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12月05日
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我们涌入附近的一家餐馆准备大吃一顿。里约人吃饭时间较晚,他们通常一边吃饭一边办趴,巴萨诺瓦乐队在广场上弹唱。我意识到,凯匹林纳鸡尾酒(巴西国酒)在手,把酒言欢,夫复何求。

A favela in Rio
The company sought advice from community ambassadors and then used experts to train locals to map the best routes through the twisty thoroughfares and alleyways. By next year, 10 percent of Rio’s favelas will have been mapped, opening up new opportunities for shops, restaurants and even tourist hostels for those who like their travel edgy. The mapped bits are said to be safe, but keep your wits about you and leave your valuables in the safe,
我上一次到里约还是十年前,那时首选航空正在这里试行团体旅游。
最佳餐馆:Braseiro da Gavea餐馆,便餐,以肉食为主,每人每餐消费预估为30英镑。详情可见:braseirodagavea.com.br
绘制地图是一回事,而现实情况又是另一回事,尤其是我们中某些人深知自己永远不会想要去尝试向前翻腾三周半转体一周。因此,在最后一个晚上,我们改变了先前计划,用打车软件优步去了里约豪华时髦逍遥自在的酒吧中心卡维亚,但是我们搜寻合适的酒吧时并非借用智能手机而是亲身体验。
You have to admire Google for persevering in the belief the world exists to be mapped whatever the problems. But tackling the favelas has been time-consuming.
奥运会场馆内掀起一股街景服务绘制地图的狂热,任何室内装置都未有遗漏,甚至是跳水王子汤姆 戴利即将使用的跳水板。
抵达:英国航空公司航班机票价始于874英镑可折返。详情可见: ba.com
Mapping’s one thing, life’s another, especially for those of us who know they will never want to do a forward three-and-a-half somersault dive with a twist pike. So on the last night, we go off-piste to Gavea, Rio’s posh-boho centre of bar excellence. We get there by Uber, but scout out suitable bars by sight rather than smartphone.
在里约的雷伯龙地区情况并没那么糟糕,那里是里约较富有的区域,井然有序又平和恬静。因此我关掉手机,四处走走漫不经心,路过一些糕点店、餐馆还有至今仍卖有女仆装的商店。
In contrast, the favelas are Rio’s running sore; ramshackle, romantic, passionate, and near lawless.
继2014年主办世界杯之后,这座城市即将在本月迎来奥林匹克运动会。眼下如若与2012年伦敦奥运会相比稍有逊色,但是这座城市却知道如何“搔首弄姿”引人入胜。仿若“天后”之城,这里美得荒谬、生机勃勃、充满戏剧性,有着其坚不可摧的信念——制定其独具个性的规章制度。按理它不能正常运转,但似乎一切如常。
近几年,这些贫民窟已成为旅游景点。每家酒店都会安排向导带旅客参观游览,但现在谷歌地图正准备“另辟蹊径”让我们能够独立探索前往该处的小巷与街道。
Crime: The Foreign Office has an Olympics site with travel info including advice on crime prevention.gov.uk/rio2016
大卫·维埃拉·比斯波是谷歌的一名社区大使。他出生并成长于离科帕卡巴纳海滩不远处的贫民窟Chapéu Mangueira。过去他曾是一名渔民,现在他正在贫民窟外缘经营着一家广受赞誉的餐馆。我们在那里用餐时不断地看到有当地人与游客从出租车上下来,络绎不绝,他们都是前来寻觅巴西经典菜肴如巴西肉烧豆,它是由黑豆与猪肉炖煮而成,可就啤酒下肚。
Rio natives may complain that – at 20 C – it was on the chilly side, but everyone’s spilled out on to the streets while entrepreneurial types sell shots of tequila for a few reals.
公司在咨询社区大使后,派出专家培训当地居民绘制出最佳路线以穿过蜿蜒曲折的大街小巷。到下一年,10%的里约贫民窟可在地图上体现,从而为那里的商店,餐馆甚至是旅舍提供了新机遇,从而让它们得以接待那些喜欢寻找刺激的游客。虽说谷歌地图的绘制路线相对比较安全,然而自己多长点儿心眼儿,保管好贵重物品也相当重要。
Where to stay: Airbnb may be your best bet as many hotels are full. Prices average around £140 per night for a flat sleeping three. airbnb.co.uk
Getting there: Flights with British Airways start at £874 return. ba.com
里约热内卢观赛小贴士:
我在某些方面也很迷糊,比如会盯着远处发呆,会为选择一块三明治而犹豫不决,最糟糕的是经常迷路。通常我觉得这还不错,,我喜欢在巴黎或威尼斯迷失方向,但在2016年奥运会主办城市里约迷路,那还是算了吧!
Getting around: The Olympic Park at Barra has nine stadia, including aquatic centre and cycling velodrome. Leave plenty of travel time, especially if work on the new Metro underground line isn’t finished.
怀旧传奇页游地址:玩怀旧传奇页游就看这里